The Dreaded orange spots!
I am not sure where to start. But I will give it a try. I have asked you questions in the past and thank you very much for all your help.
I am Still trying to figure out why my CP recipes are developing the DOS. 75% of all my batches.
I have all my recipes at 5% SF and 36% h2o discount. I do use olive oil pomace in a high percentage, but with all the other oils it usually is approx 20%.
This batch I used a water discount of 30% and 5% SF for the 100% olive oil pomace (castile) cp soap. It is already showing signs of DOS. I made it the week of 7/9/12. It has only been a couple of weeks.
I am guessing that these (dos) are from the extra flesh bits in the olive oil pomace I used or the soap batch went to hot during insulation period. Do you think this is why this batch is developing dos?
Or I have made a soap cutter just like yours and I have a guitar string that is wrapped, not sure of the metal content of it, I am not sure if this is causing a chemical reaction with the soap when I cut it. Could this bring on the dos? as the dos usually starts at the 4 corners of the bar.
I am going to try and make a cp batch with a different olive oil. I also have checked all my oils for rancidity but I usually go through my oils quickly, except some of my specialty oils like avocado, hemp, (I have had hemp oil in a soap last 6-8 months before dos arrived).
I use exclusively the soapcalc.net calculator. I am down to just about giving up. I am not sure what to do next.
What else is there for me to change, or look at in my process?
I measure in ounces with my new digital scale. I melt only the solids in my SS bowl on low just until melted. I add my liquid oils, target temp is 110F-120F. I have my lye/distilled h2o cooling to 110F-120F.
I combine while stirring. I then
move to the stick Blender, short bursts and lots of stirring to make sure of no false trace.
I am in the habit of taking my batches to heavy trace. (smooth pouring pudding like). Any add-ins I add just before pouring.
I then pour into my freezer paper lined wooden mold. I place my mold into my just warm oven, I can hold onto the rack with my bare hands, Just to warm the inside air of the oven. Not even as warm as I would do for my wheat bread to rise, If I had to guess the temp it would be about 100-120F, If that.
It is a draft free safe place at my house. I don't know or can't think of any other things I need to look at.
I am so sorry for the book I just wrote you. I need a second pair of eyes to look at my problem. I am very grateful for your time, I know life can get busy. So any help will be blessing. LisaAnswer:
I personally do not like to use pomace oil since it has been a problem for me. DOS seems to always occur when I have used it in the past. I gave it up many years ago. I like the plain old regular olive oil which is considered A or B grage. It also has the best colour...a nice light golden yellow that makes a whiter soap.
One thing you might look into is the climate the soap is cured and stored in. Cool and dry is ideal. The bars should not touch each other either. The reason for this is that while the soap cures it is losing moisture.
If the bars are touching then that moisture can get trapped on the bar rather than evaporating away. Any moisture on the soap before it is being used will start the process of deterioration.
Humid air is also a problem. Soap naturally contains glycerin which is a humectant. A humectant is something that will attract moisture and retain it. This is good for when you are using the soap but not so good if the soap is stored in a humid environment.