what is a conditioning emulsifyer

by becky wiseley
(st micheals md)

one of your recipes calls for incroquat behenyl TMS-50. What can be used in its place in lotion recipes or where can I find this ingredient.

Answer:

Hi Becky,

Incroquat Behenyl TMS-50 (sometimes called BTMS-50) is a conditioning emulsifier that is used in hair care products and lotions. Here is the description from Voyager Soap and Candles which is where I get mine from.

"Is a pastillated 50% active Behenyl quaternary conditioning agent & cationic emulsifier manufactured by Croda. Derived from the natural plant oil Colza,commonly known as Rapeseed Oil. Used in conditioners, it produces top Salon Quality products with excellent detangling & wet comb properties, yet allows it to condition without the build-up associated with other conditioning quats. Capable of emulsifying high levels of silicone, an ingredient that is normally difficult to emulsify. Can be used for Leave-on Conditioners, Rinse-off Conditioners, Detanglers, Body Creams, Lotions, Shaving Products etc. Recommended usage level is 1 – 10%."

When used in lotions, it leaves your skin with a silky, powdery feeling. I really like using it and it's so easy to make a lotion with.

Here are a few places you can purchase it:

Brambleberry

Kangaroo Blue

The Herbarie

Lotion Crafters

Voyager Soap and Candle

I've never used anything else in place of this product in my recipe so you would have to experiment with other emulsifiers to see what works.

Good luck,
Cathy