Hot Process Soap Recipe
I honestly never thought marbling a hot process soap recipe would be possible. Recently, I have come across some wonderful looking marbled hot process soaps which made me realize how wrong I was! Sadly, it's taken me far to long to discover this!
My marbling technique still needs work but I'm thrilled with the result regardless. It's pretty, colourful and smells of mint. Yummy!
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Hot Process Soap Recipe Ingredients
Shea Butter - 225 gr. | 7.94 oz. | 25%
Olive Oil* - 360 gr. | 12.70 oz. | 40%
Coconut Oil - 225 gr. | 7.94 oz. | 25%
Castor Oil - 90 gr. | 3.17 oz. | 10 %
Distilled Water - 288 gr. | 10.16 oz.
Lye - 123.75 gr. | 4.37 oz.
Water as a % of oils = 32%
Super fat/discount = 5%
Kaolin Clay (cosmetic white) - 1 Tbsp. (15 ml)
Plain Full Fat Yoghurt - 24 grams
Coconut Milk - 24 grams
Sodium Lactate - 2 tsp. (10 ml)
Peppermint E/O - 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml)
Sweet Birch E/O - 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml)
Lemongrass E/O - 1 tsp (5 ml)
Black Pepper E/O - 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml)
Ylang Ylang E/O - 1 tsp (5 ml)
Patchouli E/O - 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml)
White mica - 1 tsp (5 ml)
Pink mica - 1/4 tsp (1.25 ml)
Yellow oxide/mica mix - 1/4 tsp (1.25 ml)
Ultramarine/mica mix - mica - 1/4 tsp (1.25 ml)
Hydrated chromium green oxide/mica mix - mica - 1/4 tsp (1.25 ml)
Hot Process Soap Recipe Instructions
With this hot process soap recipe we will be creating a layered marbled looked using a bent wire coat hanger. Let's get started!
- Begin by measuring out all of the additives and placing them in sealed containers.
- I like to put the soap mould, yoghurt/coconut milk mixture, scent mix and super-fat into my warmed oven. I turn the oven to it's lowest setting to warm it and then turn it off once I'm ready to put in the additives for warming.
- I also put the glass mixing bowl I use to mix in colour to the soap base into the oven so it's not chilled when I add the soap.
- Don't forget to add your colours to a small amount of olive oil and mix out any lumps. This makes it much easier to blend them into the batter later.
- The colours, sodium lactate and kaolin clay I leave on top of the stove.
- Weigh out the hard oils and place them into the crock pot.
- Weigh the liquid oils out and place them aside. Reserve 45 grams of the olive oil which will be saved as your super-fat and added later.
- Prepare you lye solution and stir until all the lye has dissolved.
- Turn on the crock-pot to it's low setting and add the lye solution to the hard oils.
- Gently stir the hard oils and lye solution until the hard oils have completely melted.
- Add the liquid oils and whisk them in.
- Add in the Kaolin clay and using the stick blender, bring your soap to trace.
- Once your soap has reached a good trace, you can seal the crock pot top with cling wrap and place the lid on it. This will keep in moisture and heat.
- You can see below how the soap has solidified in the pot. Soon the edges will become darker and start to gel.
- This took one hour for my batch.
- Once the majority of the soap has gelled, we will be ready to take off the cover and start adding in more goodies.
- Check the temperature. It should be around 180 degree Fahrenheit. Mine got to about 200 so I could have opened it up sooner.
- Give the soap a good stir with your whisk.
- Add in the yoghurt/coconut milk mixture, the sodium lactate and your super-fat.
- Turn off the crock pot and put the lid back on while you get out the soap mould and colourants.
- You can see how the soap base has loosened up quite a bit with the addition of the goodies. It's much more fluid and is easier to stir.
- Divide the soap base into five containers. Half into the largest which will be white. The rest divide evenly between 4 containers for the remaining colours.
- Add the prepared colours and mix well. Work quickly here as we don't want the soap too cool too much.
- Add in the scent next and be sure to mix it in very well.
- Scoop the soap base into your mould, alternating between white and the colours until all of the soap is used.
- I used a bent coat hanger to make the 'swirl'. Plunging it into the soap, moving it a little bit and pulling it back up. I repeated this across the soap mould and then turned the mould 90 degrees and repeated the process.
- I'm not satisfied with the extent of the 'swirl'. I feel that the coat hanger is not thick enough for such a firm soap base. I've purchased a thick foam coated bendable wire 'twist tie thing' from the dollar store. Will be giving that a try next time.
- I tried to swirl up the top of the soap a little but at this point it does become harder.
- Also be sure to give the soap mould a good gently thump on the counter to get out any voids or bubbles in the soap.
- Allow the soap to cool. You should be able to un-mould and cut the soap in a day or two.
- In order for the soap to harden nicely, it is best to leave it to cure for a couple of weeks.
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