Hot Process Soap Recipe

'Marbled Mint'

Mint Marbled Hot Process Soap Recipe

I honestly never thought marbling a hot process soap recipe would be possible. Recently, I have come across some wonderful looking marbled hot process soaps which made me realize how wrong I was! Sadly, it's taken me far to long to discover this!

My marbling technique still needs work but I'm thrilled with the result regardless. It's pretty, colourful and smells of mint. Yummy!

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Hot Process Soap Recipe Ingredients

Shea Butter - 225 gr.  |  7.94 oz.  |  25%

Olive Oil* - 360 gr.  |  12.70 oz.  |  40%

Coconut Oil - 225 gr.  |  7.94 oz.  |  25%

Castor Oil - 90 gr.  |  3.17 oz.  |  10 %

Distilled Water - 288 gr.  |  10.16 oz.

Lye - 123.75 gr.  |  4.37 oz.

Water as a % of oils = 32%

Super fat/discount = 5%

Additional Ingredients

Kaolin Clay (cosmetic white) - 1 Tbsp. (15 ml)

Plain Full Fat Yoghurt - 24 grams

Coconut Milk - 24 grams

Sodium Lactate - 2 tsp. (10 ml)

Peppermint E/O - 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml)

Sweet Birch E/O - 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml)

Lemongrass E/O - 1 tsp (5 ml)

Black Pepper E/O - 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml)

Ylang Ylang E/O - 1 tsp (5 ml)

Patchouli E/O - 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml)

White mica - 1 tsp (5 ml)

Pink mica - 1/4 tsp (1.25 ml)

Yellow oxide/mica mix - 1/4 tsp (1.25 ml)

Ultramarine/mica mix - mica - 1/4 tsp (1.25 ml)

Hydrated chromium green oxide/mica mix - mica - 1/4 tsp (1.25 ml)

Hot Process Soap Recipe Instructions

With this hot process soap recipe we will be creating a layered marbled looked using a bent wire coat hanger. Let's get started!

  • Begin by measuring out all of the additives and  placing them in sealed containers.
  • I like to put the soap mould, yoghurt/coconut milk mixture, scent mix and super-fat into my warmed oven. I turn the oven to it's lowest setting to warm it and then turn it off once I'm ready to put in the additives for warming.
  • I also put the glass mixing bowl I use  to mix in colour to the soap base into the oven so it's not chilled when I add the soap.
  • Don't forget to add your colours to a small amount of olive oil and mix out any lumps. This makes it much easier to blend them into the batter later.
  • The colours, sodium lactate and kaolin clay I leave on top of the stove.
  • Weigh out the hard oils and place them into the crock pot.
  • Weigh the liquid oils out and place them aside.  Reserve 45 grams of the olive oil which will be saved as your super-fat and added later.
  • Prepare you lye solution and stir until all the lye has dissolved.
  • Turn on the crock-pot to it's low setting and add the lye solution to the hard oils.
  • Gently stir the hard oils and lye solution until the hard oils have completely melted.
  • Add the liquid oils and whisk them in.
  • Add in the Kaolin clay and using the stick blender, bring your soap to trace.
  • Once your soap has reached a good trace, you can seal the crock pot top with cling wrap and place the lid on it. This will keep in moisture and heat.
  • You can see below how the soap has solidified in the pot. Soon the edges will become darker and start to gel. 
  • This took one hour for my batch.
  • Once the majority of the soap has gelled, we will be ready to take off the cover and start adding in more goodies.
  • Check the temperature. It should be around 180 degree Fahrenheit. Mine got to about 200 so I could have opened it up sooner. 
  • Give the soap a good stir with your whisk.
  • Add in the yoghurt/coconut milk mixture, the sodium lactate and your super-fat.
  • Turn off the crock pot and put the lid back on while you get out the soap mould and colourants.
  • You can see how the soap base has loosened up quite a bit with the addition of the goodies. It's much more fluid and is easier to stir.
  • Divide the soap base into five containers. Half into the largest which will be white. The rest divide evenly between 4 containers for the remaining colours.
  • Add the prepared colours and mix well. Work quickly here as we don't want the soap too cool too much.
  • Add in the scent next and be sure to mix it in very well.
  • Scoop the soap base into your mould, alternating between white and the colours until all of the soap is used.
  • I used a bent coat hanger to make the 'swirl'. Plunging it into the soap, moving it a little bit and pulling it back up. I repeated this across the soap mould and then turned the mould 90 degrees and repeated the process.
  • I'm not satisfied with the extent of the 'swirl'.  I feel that the coat hanger is not thick enough for such a firm soap base. I've purchased a thick foam coated bendable wire 'twist tie thing' from the dollar store. Will be giving that a try next time.
  • I tried to  swirl up the top of the soap a little but at this point it does become harder.
  • Also be sure to give the soap mould a good gently thump on the counter to get out any voids or bubbles in the soap.
  • Allow the soap to cool. You should be able to un-mould and cut the soap in a day or two.
  • In order for the soap to harden nicely, it is best to leave it to cure for a couple of weeks.

› Hot Process Soap Recipe - Marbled Mint

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